KARPAS
The Karpas Peninsula or ‘Panhandle' as the British called the north –east part of Cyprus is a land where time stands still . Miles and miles of sandy beaches with not a person in sgiht .Ancient towns , basilicas ,ruins and tombs scatter the area waitting to be explored . To get a taste of Cyprus twenty years ago , the traveller must visit the Karpas . These are not pretty ,, picture postcard villages like Bellapais , but rural traditional Cypriot villages where the animals live under the same roof as their owners . The land is agricultural and the majority of the villagers live off the island .
History:
The peninsula has a important past . It was densely populated in Roman times , indeed Teucer founder of salamis was said to have first landed on the Achaeans Beach yeni erenköy . Trade links were strong between southern Turkey and Syria ; the latter is only 70 miles 113 km away . With its plentiful stocks of timber and an abundant water supply , the karpas made an excellent landfall for the seafarers of ancient times . It was one of the largest baronies under the Lusignans .
Routes Along The Peninsula
About 45 miles (75Km) long it is roughly a two- hour drive from Girne to Dipkarpaz . The roads are good but the journey is not to be rushed. Turn left at the Ercan in rushed . Turn left at the Ercan airport intersection and follow this route until it joins the main Gazimagusa- Bogaz road . take the left turn and begin your journey into the Karpas. The quickest route is to leave Girne on the main Gazimagusa road . Take the left turn signposted Salamis and Mutlukaya . Drive past the church of St. Barnabas and at the next juncti,on turn left . you are now on the main road to the Karpas.
Iskele
Before joining the main Gazimagusa Bogaz road after travelling for approx 25km you will pass a small village on the right called Sinirüstü 800 metres further on the left is a turning to Iskele ( trikomo) ‘ Iskele' means pie of or jetty The village is inhabited by many Turkish Cypriots Who used to live in Larnaka before 1974, when the Turkish Cypriots Who used to live Larnaca was called Iskele . The first steam engine on the island in 1879. Close to the outskirts of the village on the right be found the 12th century church of The Panayia Theotokos ( the Blessed virgin Mary , the christ carrier ) The village is famous for its pomegranates , which were a prominent crop of the lower Mesaoria area in the eighteenth century. Legend has it that Aphrodite first brought of the village is tiny church the dominnican apel of Ayios lakovos . Queen Marie of Romania was so taken by it that she had a replica built on the Black Sea coast.The church is open during the day , althiugh there are only a few ceramic plates as decoration to see on the inside.
Panayia Theotokos
This Byzantine building its prominent frescoes is well worth a visit.
In the dome ,worshipping angles surround Christ Pantocrator( ruler of the world) . The letter Ic and XC written in Byzantine style , in the two small circles , one each side of the figure , stand for the first and last letters in thye name of Jesus Christ . Two archangles approach the preparation of the throne , which is flanked by the virgin mary and hohn the Baptist.The colours are still remarkably vibrant .In the north aisle (a letter addition to the church ) are frankish Byzantine frescoes of the fifteenth century . Most of the icon dislay and those which make up the iconostasis (altar screen) are modern .
It is possible top behind theiconostasis into the belfry . The door represents the ‘gates of heaven' and the greek congregation do not pass this point ( although visitors may do so ) . Set into the outside wall of the belfry is a carved marble stone , which came from the original iconostasis . it IS interesting to see the reverse side of the iconostasis . The ropes and pulley system were to enablethe priest to take the icons out . On the various different saints days the appropriate icon would be taken down and a procession of the clergy walked through the village carrying the icon . people would pass underneath it for a blessing.
Bogaz
From the roundabout in the centre Iskele take the road singposted Bogaz . Where this road joins the main road turn left for Bogaz . Bogaz is a fishing village with a several restaurants , a couple of small good place to stop for a break and was built and funded by the local fisherman and exclusively for their use . In the mornings they stand on their boats selling the ‘ catch of the day'. Simply follow the road northeastand enjoy the changing countryside . The people are relaxed in the Karpas and this goes for the animals as well! watch your speed , it is not uncommon to find two tractors stopped in the middle of road, their owners passing the time of day . The donkeys certainly have no respect for the highway code.
Church of Panayia Kanakaria
After passing Kumyali ( which the new road bypasses) follow the signs to Ziyamet. In the center of the village turn right towards Gelincik and Kaleburnu . After about 2 miles the beautiful monastery church of panayia Kanakaria is reached .
The building seen today incorporates some marble columns in the western narthek(entrance portico or vestibule ) and corinthian capitals from an earlier church . The apse was decorated with a famous sixth century mosaic of the Christ Child sitting on the lap of the virgin Mary attended by two archangles and the apostles. It was believed that the coloured tesserae could cure skin diseases and there fore mosaic suffred consider able damage . The remaining pieces were stolen by art thieves some sold to a woman in Europe for one million dollars . She approached the Getty Museum in America who realised that these pieces should not be for sale on the open market In 1989 the greek authorities sued for the successful return on the island of the mosaic and remains are now housed in a museum on the south side . It is possible to see the fresco of the virgin mary in the south portugal and to admire the structure of this attractive building.
Dipkarpaz
The villages in this area were built during Byzantine times. Dipkarpaz is home to the community of Greek Cypriots who wanted to stay in their own village after 1974 . In the center of the village is Andreas coffee shop and the Greek priest sits outside the coffee shop drinking his greek coffee opposite is his church of Ayios Synesios . Built in the twelfth century it was used under the Lusignans and venetians as the catedral of the orthodox bish sagusa . many arthitectural and decorative elements have been copied from St sophia in lefkosa and St Nicholas in Gazimagusa . The church was enlarged in the eighteenth century . Dipkarpaz was one of the twelve Lusignan Province of Cyprus nd many wealthy people Owned land and property here. In the mid-nineteenth century mulberry trees were grown here to support the the silkworms .Residents of dipkarpaz were noted for several centurys fort the prevalence of blue eyes .
At Dipkarpaz there is a choise of routes . A right turn by the church heads out to the end of the peninsula via the south coast road, or bear left for the north coast and the ruins of Ayios Philon and Aphendrika.
To Te end of Te Pninsula
Back to Dipkarpaz take the alternative , southern route to the end of the Peninsula following the signs to Zafer Burnu /Manastir . The road soon follows the coast and there re many tracks , which lead down to the sea . It is a pleasant drive through cultivated land with many flocks of sheep and goast . The wild donkeys area to be found in this area, delightfully , and with huge ears . the teadily over the last few years and they have had a special conservation area crwated for them.
An enormous stretch of sandy beach will soon come into view . This is one of the beaches used by the breeding tutles . Apostolos Andreas Monastery is only another 2 miles furter.
Beaches In The Karpas Area
The beautiful , wild Karpas Peninsula has miles and miles of wonderful beaches . It is quite normal to share the seashore with the wilkd donkeys rather than other tourists . Go and explore , there is a bay to be found atthe end of most roads . Bogaz village , gateway to the Karpas has a small sandy bay which is managed by the Bogaz Hotel. There are several fish restaurants here so it is a good place to stop for refreshments . Watch the prices , they can be high . Six miles 9.7 km from Bogas is the village of Çayirova. . here a turning on the right leads through Bafra to Bafra Bay. Apleasant sandy beach with limited facilities . Follow the newly built main road to Yenierenköy you will find a petrol station and a small grocery shop selling the locally made wine . This is not very palatable . Passing the cheese factory on the left , the roas drops down to the turnin to Malibu Beach. There are some new holiday homes being built on the right hand side. The swimming is particularly good here , crystal cleqar water . Malibu Beaches has a snack bar and some sun shades on the beach .
Dipkarpaz is a furter 20 miles 32km east . In the village , renowed for being the village where Greeks and Turks still liv together , turn right and follow the signs for Apostolos andreas Monastery . After travelling 3 miles 5km you will come to The blue sea Hotel, one of the few basic hotels offring rudimentary facilities. Here is a small sandy bay.
